Ghosts and Hauntings 101: A Procedural Manual for the Investigation of the Paranormal

     
IN THE BEGINNING: Preparations and Essentials

     In a practical sense, much of what can be said about investigating the
paranormal is very basic. Some of it you undoubtedly already know, or
have suspected. Still, I'll go over it anyway. Much of it is just common sense,
but doesn't hurt to review.
Here, then, is what I would do to initiate an investigation. This is the same
procedure our group uses, and it will work for anyone. It also helps you to
document your findings. It makes no difference what kind of location you are
investigating, or its geographic location. I'll get into specifics on that later.

Preparation:
     The first thing that you should do, regardless of what type of location you are
investigating, is to determine, to the best of your ability, if it does, in fact, have
a spirit present. Many hauntings are residual in nature—that is, they are just
replays of some event. For some reason, the energy of a happening stays in the
location and replays the event over and over like a looped tape. This is easy to
determine, since in the case of a residual haunting there is no interaction with
the entities present. It's exactly like watching a movie.
     If there is an active haunting—a spirit present—then you need to
determine exactly why he/she is there. Was there some event that trapped
them? Are they tied to the place for some reason? Could it be that they simply
do not realize they are dead? Do they resist being dead, and for this reason
remain? Are they trying to fulfill some mission or carry out some objective? Do
they feel that something in their life was unfinished?
     To to this, you should look into the history of the property, house and
person, if possible, using obituary notices, interviews of former property
owners and older residents of the area who might remember past events,
research of local legends—any source of information might prove useful, so
don't neglect any. Police and fire department records are also a good source,
depending on what else you find: Was it a case of violent death?
     Remember that an investigation of this kind is more than just getting a
good "ghost picture" or a good video or audio tape. It is a combination of
many things, all leading to the documentation of a spirit presence, but more
than that, it should include an effort to get into contact with the spirit and help
him/her cross over to where they really belong.
     Once you've done your homework and know a little about the site and,
hopefully, the haunting, you’re ready for the next step.
     Visit the site in daylight hours if possible in order to familiarize yourself and the members of your group with the geography and with any potential hazards that might be encountered during a night time investigation. It is never a bad idea to take some basic equipment along and documentation forms at any time you visit a site. Keep in mind that paranormal activity is not limited to the evening hours. It can, and often does occur at any time.

Equipment:
     Go to the location in daylight. Take a notepad and camera with you, and
document the site as it appears in a normal circumstances. This does two
things. First, it acquaints you with the site and makes getting around and
navigating in darkness somewhat easier. Second, it gives you a control—
something by which to judge results.
     Try, as much as possible, to anticipate where you will work in the actual
investigation, and duplicate the procedure you’ll follow—a dry run, for lack
of a better term. It’s also possible you’ll get some results in the daytime as
well. We certainly have.
     Once this is done, and you have all of your material gathered, you should
assemble what you will need for the actual investigation. Since this is your
first, and I assume you haven’t yet acquired an arsenal of sophisticated
equipment, here is what I recommend as a minimum:

Two Cameras
One camera should be loaded with the fastest film you can lay your hands on.
I recommend ASA/DIN 1000 or better—2000, if you can get it, but certainly
nothing under ASA/DIN 400. This allows you to use less artificial light, and to
freeze motion.
     The ASA/DIN number is printed on the film's box and indicates the "speed"
of the film. The higher the number, the "faster" the film. There are some
cases, such as time exposures, in which a very slow film might be desirable,
but these are rare. In such cases, the camera should be set on a tripod, aimed
at the target area, and the shutter speed and opening set for maximum
exposure and time. In total darkness, or near-total darkness, you would want
the widest possible lens opening and an exposure time of around five minutes.
This type of photo has a very narrow depth of field, and will show only about
one foot or less of the target area on either side of the actual focal point. It is
useful only in the examination of very specific locations, such as closets, very
small rooms, cabinets and items of furniture, such as beds or chairs.
     ASA/DIN 400 film will stop most normal motion in daylight photography,
and is adequate for night work with a good flash. It will stop an aircraft in
flight or a car moving down the road. It does, however, require a good, strong
flash for night work; and in spirit photography, this is not a good thing since it
produces artificial "hot spots" and shadows.
     ASA/DIN 1000 and up requires very little artificial light, and none at all in
semi-darkness or twilight, or in the presence of a strong streetlight.
     Time exposure photography requires a manually operated single lens
reflex (SLR) camera. If you do not own one, go to a pawnshop and buy a good
used one—new SLRs tend to be hellishly expensive. You can get a good used
one for around $50 to $150 at a pawnshop, but take it to a good camera shop
and have it gone over to make sure it functions properly. Even something as
simple as a small light leak can cost you a lot of good photos. Having the
camera examined should cost around $20.
     The second camera should be loaded with infrared (IR) film. This loads
exactly like normal film but is sensitive to heat rather than light, and can be
used in total or near-total darkness without a flash. IR film is available from
any good camera shop or photographic supply house. It is slightly more
expensive than normal film but not excessively so—usually about 20%.

NOTE: This film processes differently than standard film, and must be sent
out. A mini-lab, such as those found in one-hour processing laboratories
cannot deal with it. Be sure to mark the processing envelope "INF NFRA RARE RED" and "IR" R" in a very prominent place. Us Using the wrong processing chemicals on IR film will produce a blank roll.

A Handheld Tape Recorder or Digital Recorder
This should be as sensitive as possible, and voice-activated. A pocket-sized
mini-recorder will do, if it has a sensitive microphone. Us Use the best quality
tape you can possibly get. This should be carried with you at all times.

A Large Cassette Re Recorder or Digital Recorder
This should be set up in the target area and left on. Once again, use the best
quality tape you can get. Us Use an external mike to collect electronic voice
phenomena (EVP) to cut down on motor noise. Placing the recorder on a soft
pad will also help to muffle any motor noises or noises caused by vibration.

A High Quality VHS or Digital Video Camera
Any good, high-resolution camera will do. Later, as you get more involved, you
might purchase a unit that has special features for night use. Once again, you
will need a minimum of 120 minutes-worth of tape, and use the best quality
you can find.

An EMF Meter
This measures fluctuations in the electromagnetic field. Fluctuations of the EM
field are a certain indicator of spirit activity.

NOTE: If you do not have an EMF meter you can substitute a very good lensatic compass, the kind that can be set manually for a true reading. You should calibrate the compass before going onsite, well away from any kind of electromagnetic interference such as power lines and so on. This will not indicate the strength of fluctuation in the electromagnetic field, but it will indicate a fluctuation—the needle will be pulled off of true. In some cases, if a very strong anomaly is present, it will go crazy. Depending on
the charge of the anomaly, the needle will either point directly toward or directly away from the source of the field disturbance in most cases. The presence of a fluctuation in the electromagnetic field does not, however, indicate absolutely that there is a spirit entity present. All other sources for such a fluctuation must first be discounted before reaching such a conclusion. Also note that there is a great deal of difference in quality in EMF meters and a corresponding difference in sensitivity of these instruments. While some are fairly inexpensive the best rule of thumb to remember is “you get what you pay for.”

Metal Detector
No Not essential but handy to have, especially in outdoor locations. Do not take such equipment into a cemetery unless it is extremely remote, or you carry written permission from those responsible for the cemetery. It can get you arrested. Gr Grave-robbing is still a crime in most places, and police are generally neither amused nor convinced by the explanation that one is a paranormal investigator.

Digital Thermometer
A fast registering Digital Thermometer for recording the actual ambient
temperature of the site, and that of any "hot spots" or "cold spots." NO NOTE: Be
particularly aware of cold spots, as they are an all but certain indicator of
spirit activity.

No Note Pads and Pens
Take written notes so as not to use up tape on either recorder, or to make any
unnecessary noise. Official documentation forms can be filled out after the fact from notes taken in the field. On the other hand if a witness is to be interviewed in the course of an investigation be sure and have the proper and official documentation on hand to record the interview.

Flashlight: Any good handheld flashlight, with fresh batteries.
A red flashlight is better, as it diminishes glare. If you do not own one, a piece
of red plastic wrap taped over the lens of a regular flashlight will work just
fine—but make sure you have no creases or folds in the wrap, as this creates
shadows and false images.

Penlight
The smaller the better. This is for use in making notes, reading maps, etc.
??Dependable Watch and Stopwatch
This if for the documentation of times involved with any sighting or other
activity.

Passive Night Optics: When affordable by the group a set of passive night optics goggles or a passive night optics visor is highly recommended. These items may generally be purchased from military surplus outlets. They allow the wearer so see in total or near total darkness without the necessity of a light source. While prices vary a set of passive night optics goggles usually run in the neighborhood of $200.00 so equipment of this nature should be the collective property of the group if this option is followed.

??Geiger Counter: Another item that can be purchased at a military surplus outlet and might be useful on an investigation is a common Geiger counter or radiation measuring instrument. Low level radiation will effect such things as EVP (Electronic Voice Phenomenon) and create anomalies on both digital and film photographs. With the presence of such things as radon gas and other low-level radioactive substances showing up in so many areas a way of measuring the background radiation level of a given site well justifies the $100.00 or so cost of a surplus Geiger counter.

Protective Items
Each member of any team should carry such protective item(s) as they feel
comfortable with. This can be any talisman or religious symbol representing
any faith or any philosophy. It/they should serve as a focal point for positive
energy in the event that a hostile, negative, belligerent or angry spirit entity is
encountered.

At least one partner
     Never—repeat—never go on an investigation alone, no matter where it is, or
how allegedly benevolent or non-threatening the haunting. There are three
very logical reasons for the above warning:
     First of all, it just isn't safe. From a physical standpoint, since you will most
likely be operating in an unfamiliar or, at best, semi-familiar location, in
darkness, it is best to have at least one companion along. I've fallen, tripped
and run into obstacles on several occasions, with various degrees of damage.
     Second, you never know what kind of spirit(s) you might encounter. A second and preferably a third member of your team will be useful in dealing with any hostile or angry entity. (See "Protective Items" covered above).
     Third, documentation of any spirit activity to complement any photographic, audio or video results is essential. Therefore, the maximum number of witnesses is not only desirable but essential. While too many people on an investigation is not good, it is not of much use for you to go alone, as an unsubstantiated report is practically worthless, no matter how reliable the witness.
     It is also essential to interview, and document the interviews with, any party or parties other than your group who have witnessed the activity being investigated. When interviewing witnesses proper and accepted interview protocol should be used; a form to be signed by all involved should be the very minimum required.
     Most reputable investigators utilize a standard police and military-style interview report which provides space for the initialing and approval of comments, in triplicate, by both interviewer and interviewee. The document should also include the date and time of the interview along with the full and proper contact information of the party interviewed. A photograph of the person interviewed is desirable but not absolutely necessary. In any later publication of findings or any later investigation such information is invaluable.
     A second or third set of hands is also useful from a practical, pragmatic standpoint, since it is very difficult for a single person to effectively handle the amount of equipment needed to conduct a successful investigation. Our group varies between twelve and eighteen members. On only two occasions have all of us gone to a single site at once. We usually divide up into three or four person teams and go to separate sites. Once a team has investigated a site, we then re-assign that site to a different team for a second evaluation, and then compare the results before documenting any findings. On rare occasions (three in the past five years), we have investigated the same site as many as five times, each time utilizing a different team.
     While on this topic, I should also mention that the competent (and smart)
Investigator always notifies police and other authorities of planned outings and locations to be investigated. Aside from problems that could arise by simply being seen in a deserted building or cemetery late at night, it should be remembered that vagrants, homeless people and drug abusers also use abandoned properties for hangouts and a place to sleep.
     In most major cities, police and, in some cases, private security companies
make regular and routine patrols of all abandoned or vacant buildings, and especially of cemeteries, which have suffered much from vandalism. Even if you have written permission, the arrival of such a patrol at an unexpected time and the questions that must be answered will interrupt the investigation and possibly spoil any results you have achieved.
     When going to a property, always contact and have the permission of the owner or legal custodians. Get this permission in writing, even if it is nothing more than a simple signed note. There are two reasons for this. Having a written permission will answer any questions that authorities such as the above-mentioned police and security personnel might have concerning your presence, and it is an invaluable piece of documentation concerning the site always appoint one person as leader to answer questions if and when the local police happen to drop in for a visit. They will respond much better to a single person answering questions than to everyone trying to talk at once.

     OPTIONAL: Each of our Strike Teams has a mascot—at present, we have
three cats and two small dogs pressed into service. This may sound silly, but it
has been worth the trouble more times than not. Animals are far more
sensitive to spirit presences than humans, and will react to them. The mascot,
however, must be extremely docile and not subject to investigating on its own.
It should be leashed or carried at all times.

Procedure:
     Having chosen a location, scouted it and reviewed the results of the dry run,
you should then assemble your team and your equipment and proceed to the task of the actual investigation. Before going to the site, each team member should be completely briefed on all known information, and assigned specific areas and tasks. It is vitally important that there be no confusion at the site. The use of a pre-determined plan of attack is strongly advised.

Typical Tactical Order
     The location should be carefully and slowly gone over, section by section, with the view of familiarization. Each potential area of activity, if not actually known in advance, should be noted. The stationary recorder(s) should be set up and switched on then left running for the duration of the investigation. All handheld or portable recording devices should be activated. Each location, room or area should then be photographed with standard photography. Special attention should be paid to corners, closets, items of
furniture, ceilings, hallways and doorways. Each member of the team should be aware of hot spots or cold spots. These areas should then be thoroughly photographed.
Once the standard photography is complete, an IR tour should be made of the entire site, duplicating, as closely as possible, the photos made with the standard film. Temperature readings should be made in each area to record ambient temperature and to establish the base temperature of any hot spots or cold spots.
     The mascot, if one is used, should then be led through the site, paying careful attention to the animal's behavior. Any location which excites a response from the mascot, no matter how slight, should then be photographed with both standard and IR units.
     Since our group includes a "special unit” with very sophisticated thermal
imaging equipment and several of us own thermal visors and binoculars, we
then do a thermal scan of the entire site. This type of equipment is expensive
in the West, and difficult to acquire. Still, it is recommended if there is funding
and availability. Starlight goggles are available from military surplus stores,
although expensive. IR goggles are also available, and less expensive, although
not as effective.
     A similar good investment when funding permits is a Ge Geiger counter.
These, also, can be purchased as surplus. While this kind of equipment is not
always useful, in some cases, it will identify an energy emission or source, and
give a good indication of its strength. This is especially true of high-output burst emissions. It will also eliminate the possibility of low-level radiation, such as microwaves or x-rays, being the cause of photographic anomalies. A surplus resen counter should run in the neighborhood of $50 US US. Please note that some modification might be required to accommodate more readily available batteries.
     Another useful addition to consider as your group grows is at least one set
of miniature or headset-model two-way radios—walkie-talkies. These are useful for communication between parts of a group when they are in different locations, especially inside a building. These are relatively inexpensive, with several good models generally available at sporting goods stores. Some very short-range but inexpensive units can even be found in toy stores. Ra Range should be no less than half a mile in the open.
     As mentioned in detail elsewhere, complete notes should be taken of the entire investigation by each team member, and a single person should be appointed to review all notes and compile a consolidated report.

author: Dr. J.Lee Choron