Rebecca Sommers May, 2009

Beltane in Ireland

For this issue of Sacred Sites we begin by wishing you a Happy Beltane! This month we are in Ireland with a group of travelers exploring sacred sites. We hope you’ll journey with us in spirit as we make our way across the mystical emerald isle.

This will be an interesting opportunity to experience the difference in celebratory styles, not only culturally speaking, but from within the Irish community itself. We will meet a transplanted American living in County Kerry, a solitary Witch, in the heart of Ireland and a member of Teampall Na Callaighe that lives in Kells.

In the upcoming issues of Pagan Pages we will share with you the details of our Pagan pilgrimage, along with interviews from local Pagans, photos of the rituals and ceremonies we attend, as well as insights from the travelers themselves.

Journey with us as we travel across Ireland to celebrate the Celtic Festival of Beltane. Here are a few of the ancient sites and windswept landscapes we will be visiting.

The Cliffs of Moher, County Clare – (Irish – Aillte an Mhothair, lit. cliffs of the ruin) an impressive wall of rock rises to a height of almost 700 feet above the churning Atlantic Ocean. The view from Hags Head overlooks the sea, standing to greet the fierce wind.

Special Note: For any movie fans out there – The Cliffs of Moher were filmed as the “Cliffs of Insanity” in the 1987 movie, The Princess Bride.

The Burren National Park, County Clare – The word Burren derives its name from Boireann, which means ‘rocky land’ in Gaelic. This region of limestone hills contains a wealth of rare flowers and prehistoric stone monuments. The Burren is a unique botanical environment in which Mediterranean and alpine plants rare to Ireland grow side by side. Its geology, flora, fauna, caves, archaeology, and history set it apart as a place of great mystery and beauty.

The 100 square mile area boasts rivers, castles, lakes, towering cliffs, lush green valleys, barren rock mountains, and constant relics of ancient civilization; round towers, stone arches, dolmens, ancient churches and high crosses.

Within the Burren exists the Poulnabrone Dolman, one of the most dramatic stone grave markers, said to be about 4000 years ago. Like a piece of sculpture, it is one of the most photographed in the world.

Special Note: Our intrepid group of travelers will attempt to locate the Poulnabrone Dolmen. Admittedly, it has eluded this traveler in previous attempts. Apparently obvious to many a tour bus driver, this American has not yet learned the secret handshake and special password that is required to locate this structure. Well hidden from the road, it seriously needs some sort of marker, of course that would ruin the beauty of the Dolmen – sigh of angst.

Druids Stone Circle, Kenmare, County Kerry – An ancient ring of stones said to be a druidic site just outside Kenmare.

Torc Waterfall, County Kerry – Just one of many in the Killarney area and is known as the most famous. The roar of the falls can be heard as you approach, the source of the water comes from a place called the “Devil’s Punch Bowl” and falls 70 feet onto the huge boulders below.

Torc Waterfall – County Kerry

Ogham Stones – A set of eight stones situated near the side of a road near Beaufort Village. Ogham stones are usually gravestones and bear the name of the deceased and often details of his descent.

Charleville Forest Castle, County Offaly, Tullamore – Surrounded by a 700-year old Oak forest (the oldest in Ireland), stands Charleville Castle, known for generations as one of the world’s most haunted castles.

Legend states that Charleville was built on the site of an ancient druid burial ground and it is said that Druids conducted ceremonies here. There is a grotto on the property that we’ve yet to see, hopefully some fairy rings – keeping our fingers crossed.

500-year-old Oak Tree at Charleville Forest Castle

We have been invited to celebrate Beltaine at Charleville with a Maypole Dance, Ceremony, and the lighting of the Bale-fire with our host Mary Alagna.

Brigids Well Kildare – (Cill Dara in modern Irish originally derived from Cell Dara in Old Irish, meaning “Church of the Oak”) One of the many wells named after the Goddess Brigid also known as Saint Bridget. I’m told that at this location there are two Wells, one just off of the car park that is a Pagan site and one farther away that is a Christianized site.

Loughcrew Cairns & The Hill of the Witch (Irish – Sliabh na Cailligh) Onto the Boyne Valley in County Meath, as we step back in time to visit the passage graves of Loughcrew. We join our local guide Gemma McGowan as she takes us on a tour of Loughcrew as well as other historical sites where they celebrate the Ancient Celtic Festivals of Lughnassa and Samhain. Gemma is an Irish member of Teampall Na Callaighe.

Monasterboice - An interesting monastic site near Drogheda in County Meath. The impressive ruins include a large cemetery, two churches, one of the tallest round towers in Ireland and two of the tallest and best high crosses.

Looking forward to reporting back to you in June.

Tags: Ireland, sacred sites, vacation

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Rebecca Sommers January, 2009

Sacred Sites – Brigid’s Well – Liscannor, Ireland

Symbolically, water is seen as a portal to the Otherworld and as a source of wisdom and healing. So, it’s not surprising that Ireland is home to nearly three thousand holy wells. Of these, at least fifteen (many undocumented) are dedicated to the Goddess Brigid. Known by many names of various spellings, she is the daughter of Dagda the great ‘father-god’ of Ireland and many believe she is one and the same with Danu, the first great mother of Ireland.

Located in Liscannor on the western coast of County Clare, Brigid’s Well is one of the many stops on a pilgrimage path that winds its way through Ireland. The Well is about an hours drive from the Shannon airport along the road to Doolin, just a few miles before you reach The Cliffs of Moher.

Brigid the Celtic Goddess of fire (the forge and the hearth), poetry, healing, childbirth, and unity is celebrated in many European countries and is perhaps one of the most powerful religious figures in Irish history.

Appearing small at first this location is deceiving.  There are many different places to visit within it so allow enough time to explore the Well, the cemetery, and O’Brien’s’ monument just across the road.

St Brigit, as she is also known, looks out over the countryside, an idyllic spot to watch the beauty of the rolling hills.

Just behind the statue of Brigid, a small archway leads to a grotto filled with some of the most garish offerings I have ever seen. I myself am guilty of leaving offerings behind, last April I left a small winged plastic dove hanging on a hook in an alcove as a remembrance to a friend that passed.  Although the friend had given me the dove and it made sense for me to leave it, I had to wonder what the stories were behind the items that other people had left.

From baseball hats to beads, moldy picture frames and even a tribute to a 911 firefighter, it seems that everyone had someone to remember or something to honor. I’m told that occasionally the caretakers have to clean out some of the items, and despite the amount of items crammed in this space, the area is very peaceful. You can easily find yourself in quiet contemplation while you look at all of the offerings.

At the end of the grotto is a small well where many people have left coins. There is a saying that Brigid rewards any offering to her, so offerings of coins were often tossed into her wells…the forerunner of the modern custom of throwing a penny into a fountain while you make a wish.

Alongside the outer wall of the grotto, a short flight of stone stairs will lead you to the top of the hill where there is a cemetery that overlooks the well. From there you can see O’Brien’s monument, erected by Cornelius O’Brien in 1853 as a tribute to himself but reluctantly paid for by locals.

We took time for a walk around the site and added our offerings to the growing pile of debris that already claims the grotto in which the shrine exists.

Looking down into the well from the walkway above that leads to the cemetery.

Cemetery located up the hill from Brigids Well

Across from the cemetery is O’Brien’s monument, erected by Cornelius O’Brien in 1853.

The Conversion of Brigid to Christianity

One cannot help but notice the decidedly Christian feel of the statue depicted as Brigid and the obvious story of the conversion that Pagan Gods and Goddesses underwent as Christianity converted them to saints.
A popular folktale is that she was midwife to the Virgin Mary, and invoked by women in labor. Another story was that she was a Druid’s daughter who predicted the coming of Christianity, was baptized by St. Patrick, who then became a nun and later an abbess who founded the Abbey at Kildare.
Unable to eradicate the Pagan Goddess Brigid, the Catholic Church made her a saint. In the fifth century Brigid was canonized by the Catholic Church and became associated with the Christian saint, named St Brigit and so, St Brigit became the patron saint of Ireland.

Even today many Irish homes have St. Brigit’s crosses, they are made from rushes as in the old days and are thought to offer protection for the home.
Visiting Brigid’s Well
As you leave Shannon airport, head toward the Western coast of County Clare, the Well is located in the town of Liscannor. Signposted Liscannor, Clare – Lios Ceannuir, An Clár, it derives its name from ‘Lios Ceannuir’ meaning O’Connor’s Fort. Take the road to Doolin, and it’s just a few miles before you reach The Cliffs of Moher.
Other places to visit while in County Clare are the Poulnabrone Dolmen located near the area known as The Burren, where the combinations of flora and fauna are not found anywhere else in the world. Aillwee Cave where they have an amazing Bird of Prey exhibit and show and The Cliffs of Moher where County Clare meets the Atlantic Ocean.

The town of Doolin is the traditional music capital of Ireland and “Trad” music can be heard almost every night.  Doolin is a lovely base for touring County Clare. A stay at the Doolin Lodge or the Aran View Hotel (in season) is recommend.
Another, even larger well dedicated to Brigid exists in Kildare. Due to directions and timing this past trip, we were unable to make it to the Kildare site. But we will try again on our next trip this coming April and will be certain to share the stories and pictures with you as soon as possible.

Reference:

The Book of Goddesses and Heroines – Patricia Monaghan
Celtic Myth and Magick – Edain McCoy

http://www.discoverireland.ie

Tags: Brigid, Brigid Well, sacred sites

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